Bleeding White

These bold white wines drink like reds

We all have friends who claim they don't like white wine. Even in the dead of winter, this is a bad bias to have--it's like deciding to use only one of your two arms. And in summer's stickiest months, it's downright nuts.

Luckily, there are bottles we call Whites that Drink Like Reds--wines that are pale in color but stout of heart. At their best, these hearty whites have amplitude in the mouth, a long finish and a complexity that keeps your brain pleasantly occupied.

And these broad-shouldered beauties don't make their lasting impression just from overuse of oak. They come by their strength honestly--namely, from a base of really good grapes.

Here are three to try:

2006 Inama Soave Classico Superiore Vigneti di Foscarino ($18) This dry and mineral-loaded white (pictured) is grippy, grapey and bold; the winemaker lets the grapes hang out as long as possible at harvest before picking them, which creates seriously concentrated flavors (

2007 Shafer Vineyards Red Shoulder Ranch ($45) There's oak here, but it's used judiciously to frame the fig, melon and lime flavors in this mouthwatering Chardonnay, which the California sunshine has turned into a big boy--not a dumb brute (

2007 Alain Paret Condrieu Lys de Volan ($65) From France's Rhône Valley, this bottle is one of the best expressions of the Viognier grape available. It's spicy and complex, mixing apricot and honey tastes with beguiling floral scents (


Get the Tasting Table newsletter for adventurous eaters everywhere
X Share on FB →

Around the Web