Get Lucky

Great wines and bistro cooking hook up at Lucky Duck
Tasting Table Lucky Duck Burger Silver Lake
Lucky Duck burger and cider

Romance is in the air, and it smells a lot like burgers and cider.

Seated by the handsome pine bar of Silver Lake bistro, Lucky Duck, we fell for an offbeat combination: chef Bryan Stevens' smoked gouda-topped burger ($16), made with grass-finished DeyDey Ranch beef, and a glass of Cyril Zangs Cidre Brut ($8), a musky farmhouse cider from Normandy curated by local wine shop owner Lou Amdur.

Situated in an unassuming strip mall on the western edge of Silver Lake--next door to a Pilates studio, naturally--Lucky Duck is run by the same crew as nearby brunch favorite Square One Dining. The jet-black space is distinguished by a big yellow duck painted on its outside wall, but don't let the comical veneer fool you; the interior possess all the hip charm of a Parisian wine bar.

Surveying the wine bar
Amdur's eyebrow-raising list of small production and New World wines, all priced at or under $14 a glass, is enough to warrant an exploratory visit. His philosophy for pairing: Put the food first.

That food includes burly vegetable dishes like grilled Treviso with fried breadcrumb-coated eggs and salsa verde ($12) and chopped cauliflower "couscous" with yogurt, curry oil, and sliced dates ($12). Pair them, perhaps, with a dry, scarlet-red 2012 Lambrusco Montovano "Incantabiss" ($8) or a blooming 2011 Sebastien Riffault Sancerre les Quarterons ($12).

Is Lucky Duck a wine bar with great food or a restaurant with a great wine list?

We feel lucky either way.

Lucky Ducky 2630 Hyperion Ave. Los Angeles CA 90027 323-686-6304

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