Food - Drink
The Small French Potato That’s Best For Pomme Puree
By WENDY MEAD
Chef Joël Robuchon created a French classic when he invented pomme purée, a French version of mashed potatoes with plenty of whole milk and lots and lots of butter. Unlike American mashed potatoes, which often call for starchy varieties like russets, Robuchon himself preferred to use a potato from his native France.
The small French fingerling potato called La Ratte, which is also known as Asparges and La Reine, has a firm texture and a buttery and slightly nutty taste like hazelnuts. Not only is it Robuchon's favorite, but chef Thomas Keller also praises this spud’s talent for absorbing of the butter and cream he uses in his pomme purée.
Farmers in France and Denmark started growing La Ratte potatoes in the 1800s, then they fell out of favor for a while before being brought back in the 1960s. While they're still not as widely available as other potatoes, it’s worth the effort to try to track them down in specialty markets — but if you have no luck, Yukon Golds can stand in.