Beef Up at Killen's BBQ


Beef Up at Killen's BBQ

Killen's BBQ
3613 E. Broadway St.
Pearland , TX 77581

Visitors to Texas expect barbecue, but often get steered astray. Houston has a handful of worthy practitioners of the art of smoked meat, but a short journey south to Pearland will reward you with an experience worth bragging about. Ronnie Killen, chef-owner of nearby Killen's Steakhouse, churns out brisket, pork ribs and sausage that would make any BBQ fan weep with smoky, fatty joy. The real trick here, though, is the beef rib. Sold by the piece and worth every penny of the $18/lb. price tag, it's a meaty masterpiece. Peppery bark gives way to meat slicked with perfectly rendered fat, the whole thing exhibiting a smokiness that somehow manages to be forceful and genteel in equal measure, creating a hunk of meat both thoughtful and atavistic. This is fine dining served up on butcher paper in a former elementary school cafeteria.

Food Style: Barbecue

Price Level: $$

Reservations Accepted: No

Atmosphere: Take Your Parents

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