2009 Scarpa La Selva di Moirano Monferrato Freisa Secco, $35

"Freisa was the great red grape of the Piedmont region before finer styles of Nebbiolo took the main stage—if you can believe it, 200 years ago, Nebbiolo wines were actually fizzy and sweet. Freisa, on the other hand, is rich in brooding black fruits, is just a little bit gamey and has a nice structural twinge of firm tannin. Scarpa is about as old school as they come, and this wine serves as a window into the Piemonte of yore."

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