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C'est Fromage

A slice of Paris in Hayes Valley

Spending April in Paris an impossibility? At least you can shop like a Gaul at Gourmet & More, the new épicerie in Hayes Valley.

For years, French natives Josiane and Laurent Recollon have peddled gourmet products to restaurants like La Folie and Gamine. With the opening of their tiny retail shop, these delicacies are now available to Francophile home cooks, too.

Behind its bistro façade--red-trimmed, with slate panels--you'll find everything from Fabrique Délices boudin blanc and Rougie foie gras de canard (get it while it's still legal) to Pommery moutarde and frozen croissant dough.

But the shop's real treasure is the temperature-controlled, hay-lined cheese room. It's like stepping off Rue de Grenelle into the famous Parisian shop Barthélémy, but without the cranky, white-capped women. Enjoy a wedge of Josiane's current favorite, Persillé du Marais, a goat's-milk blue cheese from the Loire Valley, on the shop's soon-to-open backyard patio--with a slice of La Boulange country bread (sold by weight) and a glass of wine (it's BYO). Or try one of their saucisson sec or pâté sandwiches.

The patio may not overlook the Seine, but at 5,000 miles away, it's the next-best thing.

Gourmet & More, 141 Gough St. (at Oak St.); 415-874-9133

Gourmet & More 141 Gough St. San Francisco CA 94102 415-874-9133

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