It helps that the bakery opened on a quiet stretch of Noriega Street, so close to the beach that on a clear day you can glimpse the bakery's namesake, the jagged Farallon Islands. Still, the bakery is also far from anywhere else selling pour-over cups of Blue Bottle coffee.
On Sundays, beignets are fried to order, and every day at lunch, the breakfast treats are joined by slices of quiche, lasagna and a couple of hearty soups.
But those coming in after a morning spent surfing (or a night spent drinking) opt for the big gun, the breakfast sandwich ($5). This is no warmed-over, premade affair. Once you order, a buttery biscuit is split, eggs are cracked and scrambled, bacon is recrisped, and the whole is assembled with a slice of cheddar as glue.
The foil-wrapped parcels can be taken to go, or you can grab one of a few chairs and watch the morning queue, comprising off-duty cops, fathers with children hanging from their limbs, and bleary-eyed couples, all so grateful for Noriega's newest addition.
Devil's Teeth Baking Co., 3876 Noriega St. (at 46th St.); 415-683-5533 or devilsteethbakingcompany.com
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