Cooking

Spud Magic

Plow's standout breakfast potatoes
Plow

There is much to admire about Potrero Hill's new breakfast and lunch restaurant, Plow.

Still, we've fallen hardest for the lowliest of dishes, breakfast potatoes.

Owners Maxine Siu and Joel Bleskacek have compiled a thoughtful menu for morning and noontime dining: A fried-egg sandwich ($10.50, with bacon) is assembled on an Acme pain de mie bun with Nueske bacon, Grafton cheddar and frisée. The demure scent of cherrywood swerves through the house-smoked chicken legs in a salad ($11) with arugula, Treviso radicchio, hazelnuts and goat cheese.

But our daytime reveries keep returning to the crisp potatoes ($3.50 for a side), parboiled until tender, deep-fried, and swathed in caramelized onions, thyme and the resinous whir of rosemary.

At Plow, most of the egg preparations arrive with a ballast of those peerless spuds.

To fortify our own a.m. eats, we asked Siu for the recipe. She noted that deep-frying might be a formidable undertaking for the home cook, and provided a handy alternative that she has used herself when cooking the potatoes in a home kitchen (click here to download the recipe).

Eggs, meet your new daytime companion.

Plow, 1299 18th St.; 415-821-7569 or eatatplow.com

Plow 1299 18th St. San Francisco CA 94107 415-821-7569

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