Dining

Fresh Meat

Ferry over to Larkspur for this dinner

The only shopping taking place at Larkspur's Farmshop is for potential spouses.

Owner Jeffrey Cerciello's original Farmshop in Santa Monica includes a market, but his airy, wood-accented Marin Country Mart spin-off offers cocktails and dining alone.

Cerciello, a French Laundry veteran, brought on another Keller guy, Mark Hopper, to head the kitchen. They're cooking California cuisine in a familiar vein, but with verve and precision.

The standout element in each dish is never the one you expect. It could be the nutty fried sunchokes scattered across a butter lettuce salad, for instance ($13), or the deeply caramelized beets underneath a pair of pan-roasted halibut fillets ($27).

Roast chicken dishes are so often designed for the grandmas. But Farmshop's Jidori chicken ($27), stacked over bacon-laced farro, is far too robust to be a throwaway, especially with a smoked-almond salsa verde crunch-bombing its way into random bites.

The dish you have to try--and the best thing we've eaten all month--is an appetizer of plancha-blackened artichokes with grilled apricots, radishes, green olives and burrata ($15). The creamy, the crisp-leaved, the sweet and the biting all resound in a harmonious clamor.

Just the thing with which to impress a date.

Farmshop 2233 Larkspur Landing Cir. Larkspur CA 94939 415-755-6700

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