Dining

Hey, Heyday

The kind of lunch you should be eating

There are humans who can actually work through a post-burger afternoon. Others can go 10 hours on a cup of lettuce.

Three-week-old Heyday serves lunches for the rest of the human race: vegetable-centric enough to allow workers to forgo the three o'clock espresso, and appealing enough to merit the restaurant's local-organic rhetoric.

The lunchtime line files past a glass case filled with bowls of colorful salads and neat rows of three-inch-long sandwiches. One scoop or sandwich costs $6; two, $10. Three items ($14) makes for quite a full plate.

Chef Jeremy Scheiblauer's training as a Chez Panisse Café cook is evident. One visit's vegan kale-potato soup ($6) was quietly impressive, clean and almost minimalist, brightened by lemon juice.

A toasted-farro salad with asparagus and flecks of Meyer lemon zest needed more seasoning, but Heyday's kale salad, whose frilly leaves were coated in a yogurt-avocado dressing and speckled with toasted sesame and sunflower seeds, was no cliché.

Neither was the turkey sandwich. With crusty bread, supple slices of meat, and flashes of leeks and currants, it redeemed a noontime staple we had all but given up on.

And, being alert two hours later, we were able to daydream about it.

Heyday 180 Spear St. San Francisco CA 94105 415-284-4515

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