Take the Cannoli

Caputo's Fine Foods does cannoli right
Tasting Table: Caputo's Cannoli

In Brooklyn's Carroll Gardens, it all comes down to la famiglia--even the cannoli. And we've found only one Italian shop that will fill them to order.

Peek past the dangling soppressata at Caputo's Fine Foods to spy a sign advertising "Fresh Filled CANNOLI. $1."

Frank Caputo, the son of Puglian immigrants who opened the shop in 1973, might be the one filling cannoli for you. He told us, "I always have to fill one to eat myself--they're so good!"

They've been a hit since he started serving them four months ago, and no wonder: The creamy filling includes ricotta impastata--a denser, drier version of ricotta--whole milk, sugar, chocolate chips and subtle notes of cinnamon and vanilla. Sweet and delicate, the filling is bested only by the crunchy shell dotted with tiny bubbles.

Frank's brother-in-law's brother-in-law, Leo Galbo, the owner of Cannoli Plus in Bensonhurst, makes the filling and shells. At Caputo's, you can buy a whole bag of filling for $10, two dozen cannoli shells for $7, then lug the lot to a party.

Leo even made Frank's son a giant cannolo for his Catholic confirmation party, filling it with dozens of little ones. But that, unfortunately, is not available to us. It's just for family.

Caputo's Fine Foods, 460 Court St. (between Third and Fourth places), Brooklyn; 718-855-8852

Caputo's Fine Foods 460 Court St. New York NY 11231 718-855-8852

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