Classic Tables: Molyvos
The rumors are true: Molyvos has had some work done.
A rusty puce color scheme and dusky '90s decor meant this 15-year-old Grecian dame was due for a makeover. Thanks to renovations accomplished in 19 short days in January, Molyvos has reopened with new energy.
Featuring striped Aegean-blue-and-white fabric and a graphite-toned bar area, the look is fresher. New china, flatware and stemware top off the overhaul. It's a subtly classic but lighter feel for a restaurant located steps from some other great Midtown matrons.
Even the horiatiki salata ($14), that infallible Greek salad, has had an update--classically doing away with the lettuce.
Watch an ocean's worth of whole fish sail by your table while drinking a resin-rich Mastiha Fizz ($14). Concocted from mastic sap liquor, soda water and mint syrup, it's bracing enough to tackle two cheese dishes.
The new feta se krousta sosamiou (pictured; $10) encrusts feta in sesame seeds and panko and serves the fried cake with Meyer-lemon spoon sweets, Aleppo pepper, fennel and watercress. The classic halloumi saganaki ($12) comes to the table in a mini wok, flamed with ouzo's blue fire and doused in a lovely sauce of chicken stock, parsley and butter.
This is great theater without the sticker shock.
Molyvos, 871 Seventh Ave. (between 55th and 56th sts.); 212-582-7500 or molyvos.com
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