It's not just since Hecho en Dumbo moved across the bridge that we've thought of the restaurant's name as a misnomer. Even when it functioned as a pop-up in Brooklyn, the Mexican menu always seemed too authentic (read: good) to tout the neighborhood in its name.
And it is maintaining that reputation in its new (permanent) home on the Bowery. Headed by chef Danny Mena, a graduate of the kitchen at The Modern and a native of Mexico, Hecho has a menu that offers a tour through some of the country's best flavors.
Start with the antojitos: In a series of two-bite tacos, handmade tortillas envelop fillings like Berkshire pork and spicy, roasted poblanos melting in Queso Chihuahua ($8). Also try the sopes, which serve as rafts for strips of nopal (cooked cactus) in chile cream and housemade chorizo.
For your main course, opt for the house specials, which channel the contemporary cuisine of Mexico City. Guinea-hen leg and lamb shank barbacoa are prepared in the classic, slow-cooked fashion, but they part ways over sauce loyalties: The former is covered with rich Oaxacan mole ($16), while the latter is served in consommé scented with avocado leaf, chickpeas and tomatillo ($16).
Given its propensity for achieving quick success (regardless of borough), the restaurant has been packed nightly, but a mezcal-based mojito at the bar will help pass the time while you wait for your table.
Hecho en Dumbo, 354 Bowery (between Great Jones and E. Fourth sts.); 212-937-4245 or hechoendumbo.com
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