Corned beef, we loved you once, much like we loved Lindsay Lohan.
Then we ate the scallop hash ($15) at the new L&W Oyster Co. in Flatiron and our allegiance began to falter.
There is much to like about the glistening seafood preparations at L&W. Executive chef Jason Weiner’s way with Peconic Bay scallops, though, is startling.
Weiner is a fervent devotee of the short-seasoned bivalves, in part because one of his two Almond restaurants is located in Bridgehampton near the scallops’ namesake body of water.
So during the scant weeks when the scallops are available, Weiner plays hard, cooking them in a variety of ways. For the hash, he fries Red Bliss potatoes with house-smoked bacon and red onions, pebbles them with tarragon-glanced scallops, then tumbles the lot over a swipe of Oysters Rockefeller purée. The result: A carefree, seaside meal in the core of the metal jungle.
Fret not, corned beef. We still love your trashy, irresistible self--just ask Lindsay.
L&W Oyster Co., 254 Fifth Ave. (at 28th St.); 212-203-7772 or landwoyster.com