Dining

Her Majesty The Queens Kickshaw

The Queens Kickshaw expands
The Queens Kickshaw

Ben Sandler and Jennifer Lim do what they love: a sterling mix of coffee, beer and grilled cheese. Ah oh do they do it well at their 16-month-old Astoria restaurant, The Queens Kickshaw.

Last month, they broadened their approach, expanding the menu to include both small and large plates. A recent visit revealed that far from detracting from the original tasty trifecta, the additions are a natural extension of the couple's idiosyncratic comfort food.

Take the cabbage croquettes ($12): Invented by chef Evan Orlic to use up an errant case of cabbage, these bread-crumbed fried footballs are anchored by roasted tomatoes and a verdant serrano-cilantro sauce.

That blubbery winter warmer, shepherd's pie is light and downright doable in August when meat is switched for wild mushrooms and root vegetables and puréed potatoes for a flyweight cauliflower mash ($12).

Two hulking cheddar and fresh horseradish ravioli ($13) receive a dose of quirk and crisp edges thanks to a smart technique of parboiling, then roasting.

Even with all the newfangled dishes, there is one blissful fixture: Godmother Rozzie's walnut brownies ($6) are still there, swimming in an elixir of cold brew and heavy cream.

The Queens Kickshaw, 40-17 Broadway (at 41st St.), Queens; 718-777-0913 or thequeenskickshaw.com

The Queens Kickshaw 40-17 Broadway New York NY 11103 718-777-0913
Want the inside scoop?
get the latest recipes, news and hacks from tasting table
THANKS FOR SUBSCRIBING!
Please check your inbox to verify your email address.
HOT STUFF
HOT STUFF

Read the Story Behind Godmother Rozzie's Brownies

Next Step

Very Good Humor

Keep Reading

Around the Web

Get the Tasting Table newsletter for adventurous eaters everywhere