Wine

Possible Outcomes

A small-production French wine from an overlooked region
2011 Domaine du Possible Charivari Côtes du Roussillon
Giving the Roussillon a better name

We love a good turnaround.

Take the Roussillon, a sun-baked swath of Southern France. For years, the region was known as France's industrial "wine lake," churning out case after case of mass-produced wine sold to large retailers.

But young winemaker Loïc Roure has joined a new generation of vignerons who are busy redefining the area's viticultural landscape. Take, for example, Roure's 2011 Domaine du Possible Charivari Côtes du Roussillon ($20 for 750 ml), which speaks of its place of origin in unusually fresh ways.

Having reconverted a local cooperative cellar in the tiny village of Lansac, Roure now makes a handful of small-production wines at his own estate, including Domaine du Possible.

The name is no joke: His efforts are showcasing the region's inherent possibilities.

Based entirely on the indigenous Carignan grape, the wine is fermented with native yeasts and bottled without additional sulfur; it displays a remarkably bright and gulpable natural-wine profile, without sacrificing the region's textbook whiff of blackberries, licorice and herbs.

A wine Renaissance in the Roussillon? Anything is possible.

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