Dining

Building a Better Fry

Short Order debuts at the Original Farmers Market

Short Order is the supergroup of Los Angeles restaurants.

Developed by Nancy Silverton and Amy Pressman, who sadly passed away in September, the Original Farmers Market burger spot has two great cooking matriarchs behind it. Bill Chait--of Rivera, Playa, Sotto and Picca--is a partner, and with chef Christian Page in the kitchen, Julian Cox behind the bar, and Sqirl's Jessica Koslow making the pickles and sauerkraut, the lineup is enviable.

Such talent is by no means wasted on burgers and such. Case in point: the Short Order Spuds ($4). No everyday fry, these potatoes are first baked and then roughly torn before a turn in the fryolator renders them intensely crunchy.

Dense, grass-fed beef patties star in the various burgers, our favorite of which is the In-N-Out-like Ida's Old School (pictured; $11). The cheddar-topped patty is stacked with pickles, tomatoes, iceberg lettuce, fat rounds of caramelized onions and secret sauce--old school indeed.

But burger eaters take note: Medium-rare beef and soft brioche buns can turn a burger into a sponge if you don't eat quickly. The pimento-cheese-smeared Patty Melt ($14) is wonderfully gooey and juicy in its own right, and the toasted rye bread holds up from the first bite to the last.

Short Order, 6333 W. 3rd St., Stall #110, Mid-City; 323-761-7970 or shortorderla.com

Short Order 6333 W. 3rd St. Los Angeles CA 90036 323-761-7970

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