Dining

Ensenada Eats

You don't have to go to Baja for the best fish taco

Los Feliz is hardly a stand-in for Baja, but it is home to L.A.'s best Baja-style snack: fish tacos.

Ricky's Fish Tacos, a Silver Lake staple for the last year, has a cult following. But if you looked for the little umbrella-covered cart in Sunset Junction recently, you probably went into a pescetarian panic: It wasn't there.

Thankfully, Ricky's didn't disappear for good: Owner Ricky Pina found a new location, and now he can really sprawl out.

A perfect fish taco is the sum of its parts: quality fish, crispy coating and fresh toppings. Pina first dips large chunks of fresh basa (aka Vietnamese catfish) into his signature bright yellow, herb-speckled batter. The fish is fried to order, and comes out crisp, puffy and practically molten inside.

Once wrapped in a warm corn tortilla, it's topped with shreds of green cabbage, homemade piquant salsa and a swipe of cool crema (mayo and skim milk).

Look for Ricky's new fryers, shaded tables and fruity aguas frescas in the parking lot of the Kimarge Salon (at 1400 N. Virgil Ave.) every weekend (noon to 6 p.m., Saturday and Sunday).

With Best Fish Taco in Ensenada just a few blocks away, suddenly the beach feels a lot closer.

Ricky's Fish Tacos 1400 N. Virgil Los Angeles CA 90027

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