At long last, Night + Market Song is open.
With orange sherbet-colored walls, plastic chandeliers and a topless poster of Cindy Crawford on the wall, it's clear that the quirky charm of the original WeHo hangout hasn't been lost in the cross-town translation of Kris Yenbamroong's offbeat Thai restaurant.
Co-owners Sarah St. Lifer and Kris Yenbamroong
In fact, some of Night + Market Song's new dishes push the funky-spicy-sour rubric further into the flavor stratosphere. Start with the sweat-inducing nam prik gapi ($10), a pulverized mixture of shrimp paste, palm sugar, and copious amounts of raw chile that's meant to be spooned onto deep-fried slices of eggplant and steamed cabbage.
Order the Bangkok mall pasta ($14), a Thai riff on spaghetti alle acciughe that tosses al dente strands of pasta with loads of shaved garlic, bird's eye chiles, Thai basil, tiny salted fish and whole strands of aromatic green peppercorns.
Another especially bewildering dish: luu suk ($10), a crimson-colored stew made from "pork blood and MSG" and showered with a hodgepodge of pork cracklings, crispy rice noodles, fresh herbs and dried chiles. Yenbamroong recommends soaking up the stew with clumps of sticky rice, drizzling some of the accompanying sweet-and-sour sauce on top. Messy, maybe, but delicious.
"Young people don't really eat this dish in Thailand. It's mostly [eaten by] old drunk degenerates that hang out at roadside stands," explains Yenbamroong.
Sounds like just our style.
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