Dining

Senza and Sensibility

Creative, elegant, gluten-free cuisine in Lakeview
Senza
Gluten-free pasta at Senza (Photo: Ryan Taylor)

Creative, ambitious, playful: These are the first words that come to mind when describing the food at Senza.

Then comes another, rarely strung after a list of this sort: gluten-free.

It’s an unusual characteristic, and a timely one given dietary trends and the prevalence of celiac disease. But the main reason to visit the new Lakeview restaurant is chef Noah Sandoval, a veteran of Takashi, Green Zebra and Schwa.

Sandoval clearly channels Schwa--even Blackbird, we’d say--in his artfully composed dishes. Using a gluten-free flour blend formulated by Senza’s owner, he makes gnocchi ($12) that invoke an everything bagel. The garlicky nubs are tossed with sesame seeds, poppy seeds and dehydrated garlic, and joined in the bowl by ricotta, arugula, a sous-vide duck egg, and roasted-smoked-fried shiitakes that mimic bacon.

Ginger- and lemongrass-scented butternut squash soup ($9) is poured tableside over a mosaic of complementary flavors: spiced pumpkin seeds, pomegranates, pumpkin, butter-poached lobster and celery foam.

Silky ribbons of pasta ($24) tangle with artichokes, pickled cherry tomatoes, chanterelles and Cerignola olives. There’s more to come: “We just got an anti-griddle the other day,” says Sandoval. “We’re ready to have some fun.”

Senza, 2873 N. Broadway; 773-770-3527 or senzachicago.com

Senza 2873 N. Broadway Chicago IL 60657 773-770-3527
Want the inside scoop?
get the latest recipes, news and hacks from tasting table
THANKS FOR SUBSCRIBING!
Please check your inbox to verify your email address.
HOT STUFF
HOT STUFF

A New Tradition

Keep Reading

Around the Web

Get the Tasting Table newsletter for adventurous eaters everywhere