We recently read a glowing restaurant review that touted such plates as 
rabbit stuffed with greens, pine nuts and currants, and a buratta-capped 
tomato salad. If it weren't for that now-ubiquitous cheese necessitating a 
definition, we would never have guessed the Los Angeles Times review 
http://articles.latimes.com/1999/jan/10/magazine/tm-64218 of Suzanne Goin 
and Caroline Styne's Lucques was published in 1999. Twelve years later, not 
much has changed in the dining room that was once the carriage house of 
Harold Lloyd, a star of the silent screen. Goin's cooking is still 
religiously dictated by the markets, capturing moments when the peak season 
for, say, green garbanzo beans, summer squash and its blossoms all overlap. 
The trio currently appears alongside ricotta dumplings ($18), while only 
weeks ago they were accompanied by fava beans. Lucques isn't the restaurant 
to look to for technological innovations, but the kitchen finds plenty of 
ways to keep the basics interesting. The classic French preparation of 
chicken braised in cream ($28) is neatly contained in caul fat, and the 
lamb dish ($32) doesn't rely on a bone-in rack. Instead, thin paillards are 
grilled over wood, their smoky juices slicking wilted escarole, sunchokes 
and artichokes. Something tells us 2011's menu will sound just as fresh 
come 2023, after another 12 years have ticked by. Lucques, 8474 Melrose 
Ave., West Hollywood; 323-655-6277 or lucques.com http://www.lucques.com
   
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Fri. 24 Jun '11
Dining | LOS ANGELES
 
Classic Tables: Lucques
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Photo: Rob Stark Photography
 
We recently read a glowing restaurant review that touted such plates as rabbit stuffed with greens, pine nuts and currants, and a buratta-capped tomato salad.

If it weren't for that now-ubiquitous cheese necessitating a definition, we would never have guessed the Los Angeles Times review of Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne's Lucques was published in 1999.

Twelve years later, not much has changed in the dining room that was once the carriage house of Harold Lloyd, a star of the silent screen. Goin's cooking is still religiously dictated by the markets, capturing moments when the peak season for, say, green garbanzo beans, summer squash and its blossoms all overlap. The trio currently appears alongside ricotta dumplings ($18), while only weeks ago they were accompanied by fava beans.

Lucques isn't the restaurant to look to for technological innovations, but the kitchen finds plenty of ways to keep the basics interesting. The classic French preparation of chicken braised in cream ($28) is neatly contained in caul fat, and the lamb dish ($32) doesn't rely on a bone-in rack. Instead, thin paillards are grilled over wood, their smoky juices slicking wilted escarole, sunchokes and artichokes.

Something tells us 2011's menu will sound just as fresh come 2023, after another 12 years have ticked by.

Lucques, 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; 323-655-6277 or lucques.com
RESERVE A Table at Lucques
 
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