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Tues. 28 Sep '10 |
Dining | LOS ANGELES |
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Al Pastor vs. The Man
Tacos and politics at Venice and La Brea
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In a post-Omnivore's Dilemma world, we know that politics are on our plate. But there's another level of food politics going on in Los Angeles: food truck legislation.
The debate of late has been about extending restaurant-style letter grades to food trucks. Grading trucks would help do away with the "roach coach" stereotyping, but the street food traditions of many loncheras--the trucks that inspired L.A.'s mobile food craze--are often at odds with The Man and his rules, the al pastor at Tacos Leo being a prime example.
Tacos Leo is know for its al pastor pork, prepared on a traditional trompo spit next to the truck by Norberto Martinez Castro, who was brought here from Oaxaca specifically for his pork-roasting skills. But Castro's spit recently disappeared, its outdoor location deemed illegal.
Some blame the food bloggers who drew attention to the truck, while others see the lost trompo as a casualty of the ongoing battle between the city and its mobile food outfits--an opinion we agree with.
The achiote-stained pork, cooked inside the truck now, is still seasoned by Castro's practiced hand, giving the meat a perfect balance of heat, spice and citrus. Set atop a pair of corn tortillas and topped with a slice of pineapple, these are still some of the best al pastor tacos ($1) around.
And if there's any justice, we'll get the trompo back soon.
Tacos Leo, corner of Venice and La Brea blvds., Mid-City
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Bill Esparza's Al Pastor Primer |
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