|
| Tues. 28 Sep '10 |
| Dining | LOS ANGELES |
| |
Al Pastor vs. The Man
Tacos and politics at Venice and La Brea
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
In a post-Omnivore's Dilemma world, we know that politics are on our plate. But there's another level of food politics going on in Los Angeles: food truck legislation.
The debate of late has been about extending restaurant-style letter grades to food trucks. Grading trucks would help do away with the "roach coach" stereotyping, but the street food traditions of many loncheras--the trucks that inspired L.A.'s mobile food craze--are often at odds with The Man and his rules, the al pastor at Tacos Leo being a prime example.
Tacos Leo is know for its al pastor pork, prepared on a traditional trompo spit next to the truck by Norberto Martinez Castro, who was brought here from Oaxaca specifically for his pork-roasting skills. But Castro's spit recently disappeared, its outdoor location deemed illegal.
Some blame the food bloggers who drew attention to the truck, while others see the lost trompo as a casualty of the ongoing battle between the city and its mobile food outfits--an opinion we agree with.
The achiote-stained pork, cooked inside the truck now, is still seasoned by Castro's practiced hand, giving the meat a perfect balance of heat, spice and citrus. Set atop a pair of corn tortillas and topped with a slice of pineapple, these are still some of the best al pastor tacos ($1) around.
And if there's any justice, we'll get the trompo back soon.
Tacos Leo, corner of Venice and La Brea blvds., Mid-City
|
 |
Bill Esparza's Al Pastor Primer |
 |
| |
 |
Add to Your To-Do List |
|
| |
 |
To a Friend |
 |
This Article |
 |
To Tasting Table |
 |
A Friend to
Tasting Table |
| |
|
|
|
| Sponsored |
|
|
|
| |
 |
PARTNER LISTING |
|
|
 |
| |
Wine Country Comes to You
Heading to wine country anytime you want to sample a wine is hardly practical--even from L.A. Thankfully, TastingRoom.com allows you to swirl and sip samples of top wines from the comfort of your home. Tasting kits run from $20 to $25--and now's the time to try: For a limited time, Tasting Table subscribers receive a 50 percent discount on any sampler by using promo code "TT50". Buy your sampler today.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
| |
| Sponsored |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
