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| Mon. 23 Aug '10 |
| Dining | SAN FRANCISCO |
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Littler Skillet
Darwin Café does small in a big way
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When chef Vincent Schofield left the fish-focused Ebb & Flow, we shed a saltwater tear.
Thankfully, he's resurfaced--in the unlikeliest of places.
The charming, weeks-old Darwin Café a few blocks from Little Skillet on Ritch Street in San Francisco perfectly complements Schofield's talents. There, from morning to early evening, he cooks in a miniscule workspace, producing inspired food that belies his limited resources.
Smart baguettes ($4) and pressed sandwiches ($6.50 to $8) are featured for breakfast and lunch. But Schofield's prowess glimmers come 5 p.m., when he pulls out his tiny skillets.
Using a four-tiered broiler, he juggles a collection of six-inch cast-iron skillets to broil, sear and roast five ingenious dishes ($8 to $9).
A flaky chunk of albacore comes with blistered onions, two types of olives and a bracing celery salad. Beautifully seared scallops are draped with jamón serrano, watercress and serrano chiles. Who needs a live fire with cooking this precise?
There are also sharp salads of Belgian endive and apple ($7.50), and shaved summer squash with white anchovies and capers ($7.50), plus a succinct selection of wines.
Welcome back, Mr. Schofield. We've missed you.
Darwin Café, 212 Ritch St. (at Brannan St.); 415-800-8668; Mon. through Fri., 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
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Your Own Little Skillet |
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To a Friend |
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This Article |
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To Tasting Table |
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A Friend to
Tasting Table |
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| Sponsored |
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OPENED |
Paisan
This new pizzeria from the people behind Lalime's and Sea Salt is now open (at 2514 San Pablo Ave.) for dinner in Berkeley.
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UPDATE |
Zero Zero
Lunch service (Mon. through Fri., 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.) begins today at this new SoMa restaurant. Plus, reservations are also available starting today.
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