Opening a restaurant is a Herculean endeavor, but on the scale of 
challenges faced, running out of food before the end of lunch service--as 
Mile End often did when it opened this winter--is a great problem to have.

Now out of its infancy, this Montreal-style restaurant has ironed out such 
wrinkles by expanding: Owners Noah Bernamoff and Rae Cohen rented 
additional space and hired a baker to help them make their own bread. Most 
importantly, they bought a second smoker.

And with successful equations for breakfast (St. Viateur bagels
http://www.stviateurbagel.com/ from Montreal) and lunch (indulgent 
poutine and smoked-meat platters) worked out, they've turned to dinner.

The addition of crispy burnt ends of the smoked brisket to a ground-beef 
blend from the Meat Hook
http://tastingtable.com/entry_detail/nyc/1717/The_Meat_Hook_revamps_the_humble_hotdog.htm 
elevates an otherwise standard hamburger to one with an alluring foreign 
parlance. And grass-fed rib eye steak is thinly sliced (a textbook 
Quebecoise preparation) and met with an onion marmalade deglazed with 
Stumptown coffee.

The coming weeks hold other delicious imports: Torti?re
http://tastingtable.com/entry_detail/nyc/921/Add_a_Quebe?ois_meat_pie_to_your_holiday_table.htm 
and smoked pulled duck will keep the new smoker busy.

And although smoke may be the specialty here, meat will now have a rival in 
chomeur, a soon-to-appear dessert. The rich maple-syrup-infused pudding is 
the ideal tip of the hat to our neighbors up north.

Mile End, 97A Hoyt St. (between Atlantic Ave. and Pacific St.), Brooklyn; 
718-852-7510 or mileendbrooklyn.com http://www.mileendbrooklyn.com/
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Wed. 30 Jun '10
Dining | NEW YORK CITY
 
Up in Smoke
Mile End grows into itself
 
Mile End
Photo: Daniel Krieger
 
Opening a restaurant is a Herculean endeavor, but on the scale of challenges faced, running out of food before the end of lunch service--as Mile End often did when it opened this winter--is a great problem to have.

Now out of its infancy, this Montreal-style restaurant has ironed out such wrinkles by expanding: Owners Noah Bernamoff and Rae Cohen rented additional space and hired a baker to help them make their own bread. Most importantly, they bought a second smoker.

And with successful equations for breakfast (St. Viateur bagels from Montreal) and lunch (indulgent poutine and smoked-meat platters) worked out, they've turned to dinner.

The addition of crispy burnt ends of the smoked brisket to a ground-beef blend from the Meat Hook elevates an otherwise standard hamburger to one with an alluring foreign parlance. And grass-fed rib eye steak is thinly sliced (a textbook Quebecoise preparation) and met with an onion marmalade deglazed with Stumptown coffee.

The coming weeks hold other delicious imports: Tortière and smoked pulled duck will keep the new smoker busy.

And although smoke may be the specialty here, meat will now have a rival in chomeur, a soon-to-appear dessert. The rich maple-syrup-infused pudding is the ideal tip of the hat to our neighbors up north.

Mile End, 97A Hoyt St. (between Atlantic Ave. and Pacific St.), Brooklyn; 718-852-7510 or mileendbrooklyn.com
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CLOSED Beba
Only 72 days after opening, this Soho Mediterranean restaurant has shut its doors.
 
 
OPENED Hide-Chan Ramen
Chef Hideto Kawahara is keeping busy this summer; after opening Totto Ramen in early June, he has now turned the former Yakitori Torys into a ramen shop specializing in tonkotsu (pork) broth (at 248 E. 52nd St., second floor; 212-813-1800). Lunch service begins July 1.
 
 
 
 
 
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