Dick McCracken is a curator of the meatiest persuasion.

The former banker scours the city and suburbs, often with a human 
translator in tow, looking for locally smoked goods for his French Market 
stall, Fumare Meats. Prosciutto is the only import you'll find in Fumare's 
case; all else is sourced from Chicagoland's German, Hungarian, Polish and 
even Croatian producers.

He swears Ream's Elburn Market http://elburnmarket.com/ bacon has the 
perfect fat-to-meat ratio, so he brings in four kinds. Try the 
hickory-smoked, cinnamon-dusted variety--'It smells like breakfast when you 
fry it,' says McCracken--and keep a hunk of the cured, unsmoked pork belly 
in the fridge to use like pancetta.

Fresh Polish blood sausage--which a British customer declared the best 
black pudding she's had--is available each Friday and Saturday ($6 per 
pound).

Bone-in smoked pork belly ($6 per pound) from the Polish smoker Alex's 
Delicatessen is made for braising; it adds a smoky heft to stews, and is 
delicious on its own when softened by a few hours of cooking.

After loading up on smoked meats, stop by the Pastoral
http://www.pastoralartisan.com/ stand next door for some Wisconsin Ader 
K?se blue cheese, a charming partner for Fumare's speck-like Hungarian pork 
loin.

Fumare at the Chicago French Market, 131 N. Clinton St.; 312-930-4220 or 
frenchmarketchicago.com http://www.frenchmarketchicago.com/vendor/fumare
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Mon. 08 Mar '10
Cooking | CHICAGO
 
The Smoke Hunter
Seeking out smoked meats for Fumare
 
Photo
 
Dick McCracken is a curator of the meatiest persuasion.

The former banker scours the city and suburbs, often with a human translator in tow, looking for locally smoked goods for his French Market stall, Fumare Meats. Prosciutto is the only import you'll find in Fumare's case; all else is sourced from Chicagoland's German, Hungarian, Polish and even Croatian producers.

He swears Ream's Elburn Market bacon has the perfect fat-to-meat ratio, so he brings in four kinds. Try the hickory-smoked, cinnamon-dusted variety--"It smells like breakfast when you fry it," says McCracken--and keep a hunk of the cured, unsmoked pork belly in the fridge to use like pancetta.

Fresh Polish blood sausage--which a British customer declared the best black pudding she's had--is available each Friday and Saturday ($6 per pound).

Bone-in smoked pork belly ($6 per pound) from the Polish smoker Alex's Delicatessen is made for braising; it adds a smoky heft to stews, and is delicious on its own when softened by a few hours of cooking.

After loading up on smoked meats, stop by the Pastoral stand next door for some Wisconsin Ader Käse blue cheese, a charming partner for Fumare's speck-like Hungarian pork loin.

Fumare at the Chicago French Market, 131 N. Clinton St.; 312-930-4220 or frenchmarketchicago.com

SEE Pictures of Ream's Elburn Market on LTHForum
 
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CLOSED A Mano
This casual Italian restaurant--owned by (and directly below) Bin 36--served its last pizza on Saturday. The owners have no future plans for the space.
 
 
UPDATE Glazed Donuts
Doughnut maven Kirsten Anderson has decided to stop making doughnuts--but not until the end of 2010. Join the half-dozen club while you still can--and perhaps Anderson will change her mind about ditching the dough.
 
 
 
 
 
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