Dining

Loco Moco

What won't the Animal dudes do with meat?

Animal's Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo have no limits when it comes to meat. From the chefs now dubbed "carniwhores" comes the latest and tastiest creation: foie gras loco moco ($35), a caloric time bomb that's worth every heart-clogging moment.

To us mainlanders, Hawaiian loco moco--white rice, hamburger and fried egg all smothered in gravy--might sound like an odd combination, but it's just the kind of dish these gutsy chefs like to turn on its head.

As with most of the menu, it starts with artisanal ingredients and ends with a dash of whimsy: Fluffy Anson Mills Carolina Gold rice comes topped with a juicy Niman Ranch beef burger, a thick slice of perfectly seared foie gras and a slightly runny quail egg, with slices of fried, salty Spam nesting somewhere in the middle. The whole mound sits in a pool of homemade teriyaki sauce dotted with fiery red Sriracha.

This sweet-spicy "gravy" creates a big mess of flavors with the fat and juices, but the layers and textures--and most importantly, the meats--are completely discernable. And about halfway through you'll suddenly remember you're eating Spam and foie gras...and savoring every bite. Loco, indeed.

Animal, 435 N. Fairfax Ave.; 323-782-9225 or animalrestaurant.com

Animal 435 N. Fairfax Ave Los Angeles CA 90036 323-782-9225

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