Cooking

A New Breed of Butcher

Inside New York's first nose-to-tail meat shop
Marlow & Daughters

The new Marlow & Daughters in Williamsburg isn't just the city's most hotly anticipated new butcher shop in—well, ever—it's the first shop to buy only local, pasture-raised whole animals and break them down on-site. And head butcher Tom Mylan knows how to break them down: After preparing the standard butcher cuts, he turns the remaining meat into some amazing house-made charcuterie. In between curing guanciale and skinning pork chops, Mylan showed us his favorites:

Lamb pancetta ($16 a pound) Unless you make your own lamb bacon, this is the closest thing you'll find in New York. Cured with thyme, rosemary and black pepper, Mylan's lamb pancetta is the perfect partner for eggs and toast.

Fresh sausage ($12 a pound) As any good butcher should, Mylan grinds and cases his own sausages, stocking a rotating selection each week. The current lineup features pecorino and parsley, spicy chorizo and a breakfast blend; stay tuned for garlicky links made especially for that ambitious cassoulet you've been yearning to cook.

Duck confit ($7 each) After a good salting and a long, hot bath in their own fat, Mylan cures these tender legs overnight and lines them up, can-can style, for the taking. Toss them into the aforementioned cassoulet or serve them over roasted potatoes.

Marlow & Daughters, 95 Broadway (at Berry St.), Brooklyn; 718-388-5700 or marlowanddaughters.com

Marlow & Daughters 95 Broadway New York NY 11211 718-388-5700

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