Tree House

City slickers decamp to make peerless maple syrup

Donning work boots and tromping through the snow might seem like it's a far cry from pouring wine at Per Se.

But the change is a reality for Nathan Wooden, who left the latter to do the former at Crown Maple Farms, a new maple-syrup company in Duchess County, New York.

While many questioned the move, we see the logic: The maple syrup we sampled from Crown's first season of tree-tapping is among the finest we've had.

Wooden is part of a team led by farm-owner Robb Turner, another city skipper. After buying 800 acres of densely wooded land, he spent more than a year researching maple tapping and production techniques, enlisting the expertise of foresters and scientists at Cornell University.

The resulting operation is exacting in its standards, using custom-built, energy-efficient machines and a three-part filtration process to produce syrup that is all flavor and no impurities.

And chefs agree with our assessment: The syrup has already appeared at such New York restaurants as Colicchio & Sons, Vinegar Hill House, Blue Hill and Brooklyn Fare. Whether you're eating it with pancakes or with tasting menus, this sticky sweetener meets the need.


Get the Tasting Table newsletter for adventurous eaters everywhere
X Share on FB →

Around the Web