There are gulpable red wines that are perfect to drink when the mercury is high, whites that, despite their chill, ideally complement winter cooking. But wine’s third way, rosé, is relegated almost exclusively to summer, the towers of shimmering pink bottles arriving and departing from wine-store shelves in unison with white pants and sandals on the street. So for a last-gasp summer meal, you should take advantage of rosé like you would late-season tomatoes: Drink them before they are gone. An idiosyncratic rosado from Spain’s Bierzo region has a spicy edge that plays well with pork; a sparkling pink pétillant naturel is almost candylike, in the best of ways; and the ancient Provencal grape Tibouren shows how rich, elegant and sophisticated a rosé can be. If you do want to drink red, pick something light and fresh, like Broc Cellars' 2011 Valdiguié.