We go through a lot of kimchi in the Tasting Table Test Kitchen--for our own gustatory pleasure, of course, as well as in the name of cross-testing recipes, including fried rice from the West Coast or a fried-egg sandwich from the South. After using every last ruffle of kimchi, all that remains is what we call "kimchi juice." To us, it’s as precious as pickle or olive juice, which we like adding to a salad dressing or to tartar sauce. One of our senior food editor's favorite uses for "kimchi juice" is to spike the tomato-based sauce for shrimp cocktail. When this high-octane liquid replaces horseradish, it brings a garlicky, spicy note to an otherwise classic dipping sauce.