We often feel like we're being taken advantage of when we're eating brunch, subjected to poached eggs with chalky yolks and leaden pancakes.

Town Hall to the rescue.

At the restaurant's recently launched weekend brunch, morning salvation is embodied by fried chicken and waffles. The tangy yeasted waffle ($16) is topped with two large pieces of golden, craggy crusted bird and served with a pitcher of syrup.

As at dinner, the brunch menu has a Southern influence, evidenced by the pimento hollandaise topping the chicken-tasso hash with poached eggs ($14), and the side of tender, buttery biscuits served with white gravy that's studded with bits of bacon ($5).

Cornflake-crusted brioche French toast ($12) is more like dessert: The brioche acts as a sponge for the custard, and the lily is further gilded with caramelized bananas, whipped cream and bourbon caramel.

By the light of day, the dining room feels airy, and sunshine streams through the big windows. Bloody Marys are free-flowing, the newspaper is laid out on the bar, and there's zydeco playing. You could wake up to much, much worse.

Town Hall, 342 Howard St. (at Fremont St.); 415-908-3900 or townhallsf.com