Just when we thought we were done with wood-fired pizzas, rustic pastas and handcrafted charcuterie, along comes chef Richard Reddington.

At his new Redd Wood in Yountville, the chef of nearby Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant Redd is doing what so many have done before--but doing it so well, it feels fresh.

The pies, topped with heady combinations like pork jowl, clams, garlic, oregano and Montasio ($16), and prosciutto cotto, Taleggio, red onions and Brussels sprouts ($14), are made by a familiar pizzaiolo: Liza Shaw, late of A16.

The menu changes often--now, for example, you can get potato gnocchi with braised duck, rosemary, black olives and pancetta ($15), or ribbons of pappardelle with Savoy cabbage and rabbit ($16).

And though house-made charcuterie is now as ubiquitous as bread and butter, when it's done like this--as with the pork-head terrine with pickled vegetables, mustard and slabs of grilled bread ($12)--we remember precisely how good it can be.

Redd Wood, 6755 Washington St., Yountville; 707-299-5030 or redd-wood.com