As excited as we are about SPQR's new chef, Matthew Accarrino, we're even more thrilled to use the restaurant's reopening as an excuse to dive back into its carafes.

Thankfully, SPQR is not the only spot with pours that play the field between glass and bottle. Here, some standout programs:

SPQR Co-owner and wine director Shelley Lindgren likes the tannins and dark fruit of the 2005 Principe Di Butera "Deliella" Nero d'Avola ($31 a carafe) with Accarrino's ricotta-stuffed raviolo with lamb's quarters. 1911 Fillmore St.; 415-771-7779 or spqrsf.com

A16 At SPQR's sister restaurant, one of Lindgren's favorite pairings is the 2007 Terre del Principe Pallagrello Bianco Terre del Voltorno ($25 a carafe) with squid-ink tonnarelli with shrimp, zucchini, and chile. 2355 Chestnut St.; 415-771-2216 or a16sf.com

Uva Enoteca General manager Boris Nemchenok and wine director Jim Kennedy recommend the 2007 Medici Ermete "Solo" Lambrusco ($10 a quartino) with a prosciutto, Boccalone capocollo, and house-cured lardo platter. 568 Haight St.; 415-829-2024 or uvaenoteca.com

Bar Bambino At Monday regional-dinner nights, wines like Tuscany's 2006 Poderi del Paradiso Vernaccia di San Gimignano are served in quartos ($10 for 250 ml). Tuesdays equal gnocchi: Recently, one with speck and green beans was matched with a single-vineyard Lagrein from Thurnhof, sized in quarto and mezzo (375 ml) portions. 2931 16th St.; 415-701-8466 or barbambino.com