Beyond Booze

The substantial accomplishment of Starbelly bar manager Lane Ford has been lost amid the hoopla surrounding this new Castro restaurant.

Yes, the place lacks a liquor license. Yes, Ford makes drinks using only beer and wine. But these are far from feebly conceived makeshift cocktails.

Instead, Ford turned to preexisting drinks for inspiration. For his spin on a Pimm's Cup, he looked to one of his mixology mentors, Erik Adkins (of Heaven's Dog and the Slanted Door), who makes a version topped with Champagne. Ford's inventive, liquor-free take mixes four brands of top-shelf vermouth--Barolo Chinato, Carpano Antica, Punt e Mes and Dolin dry--with Dubonnet rouge and a wallop of Peychaud's bitters.

From Spain's Basque region, he borrowed the Calimocho: Mexican Coca-Cola cut with Zinfandel and sweet vermouth.

From Mexico, Ford culled the iconic Michelada. The most familiar stateside preparation features beer, lime juice, hot sauce and Worcestershire; a less common version includes tomato juice. For one of his Micheladas, dubbed the Diablito (pictured), Ford coats the rim of a tall glass with chile-lime salt and spikes the IPA beer base with Maggi seasoning and Clamato (click here to download the recipe).

The result has all the piquant charms of a traditional Bloody Mary, with nary a jigger of vodka in sight.

Starbelly, 3583 16th St. (at Market St.); 415-252-7500 or starbellysf.com