Thanksgiving is hardly the season of culinary innovation.

On the fourth Thursday in November, you have a pretty good sense of what you're going to eat.

So although we know that all we'll be doing with pumpkin this month is turning it into pie, that doesn't mean we won't welcome other permutations.

Case in point: Pumpkin-pie-custard-filled donut holes at Baker & Banker ($9). To create them, the rule-breakers in the pastry department (led by co-owner Lori Baker) first make a cooked custard that hews closely to the traditional pie filling, with a caramelized flavor courtesy of brown sugar and a judicious lacing of nutmeg, allspice and cinnamon.

The donut holes, which are available only at Sunday brunch, are made with a gently sweet, yeasted dough. They're fried to order, then the cold filling is piped in. By the time they reach your table, following a finishing roll in cinnamon sugar, the custard has warmed slightly, invoking a slice of freshly baked pie.

What we're giving thanks for this year: Not everyone is stuck in a holiday rut.

Baker & Banker, 1701 Octavia St.; 415-351-2500 or bakerandbanker.com