For three years, oenophiles have been dragging their own bottles to Lers Ros in the Tenderloin.

No longer: At Lers Ros' new Hayes Valley location, chef Tom Silargorn's ambitious Thai menu is now matched by an equally ambitious wine program, with bottles grouped by style rather than geography or varietal.

German wines are frequently paired with Asian food; the fiery green papaya salad (Som Tom Poo; $10), with a funky cooling note contributed by the addition of raw pounded blue crab, harmonizes perfectly with the 2009 Reuscher-Haart Piesporter Riesling ($8 a glass; $32 a liter).

For a more adventurous pairing, try the 2010 Mas Bruguière Pic Saint-Loup ($8 a glass; $32 a bottle), a dry rosé from Southern France.

Slices of tender beef arrive steaming in a sauce brimming with young green peppercorns (Nuer Pad Prik Thai Ooan; $11). The flavors sparkle in combination with the bright cherry notes in the 2009 Dao Quinita de Saes from Portugal ($7 a glass; $28 abottle) and find a match for their meaty heat in the 2010 Les Vins Contés Poivre et Sel, a spicy red from the Loire Valley ($38 a bottle).

Now you can go out for Thai and drink well too, without raiding your personal cellar.

Lers Ros, 307 Hayes Street; 415-829-3953 or lersros.com