Too often, wine lists seen to be in the service of a restaurant's wine director, not the customer.

Not so at month-old Brassica, Cindy Pawlcyn's new St. Helena restaurant.

Though the list of bottles is as good as any around, Brassica's innovative approach to portions differentiates it from other Napa restaurants. Almost 80 selections, about 75 percent of which hail from California, are available by the bottle, in 500-ml carafes and by the 2- or 5-ounce pour.

Eight more--all California--wines are on tap, served as above, with none costing more than $45 for 750 ml and some, like the Provençal-style Hendry rosé, priced at far less ($27 for 750 ml).

A dozen additional wines, referred to as the Brassica 12, showcase 12 small-production efforts from Napa wineries without their own tasting rooms, such as Larkin (the 2008 Cabernet Franc, $85 for 750 ml) and Bressler (the 2007 Cabernet, $114 for 750 ml, of which only 500 cases were made). Each Saturday evening, one of the winemakers is at the restaurant, pouring tastes for diners.

It's choose-your-own-adventure drinking, a perfect complement to the varied Mediterranean small plates on Brassica's menu, and a boon for indecisive--or simply curious--drinkers.

Brassica, 641 Main St., St. Helena; 707-963-0700 or brassicanapavalley.com