We confess, we've sat through entire brunches at Foreign Cinema just to get at an order of pop tarts.

The restaurant's postcard-size morning pastries are justly famous, but a recently launched breakfast and lunch spot in Oakland is proving to be our new drop-in destination for the classic toaster turnover.

Kitchen 388 opened in Oakland's Lower Hills neighborhood, near Lake Merritt, at the end of June. Owner Joseph Dunbar once cooked at Masa's, where he met pastry chef Alicia Toyooka, now in charge of Kitchen 388's daily changing selection of baked goods. Pop tarts are a constant, with fillings that morph with the seasons.

These days, Toyooka spreads rectangles of so-called faux puff pastry with house-made rhubarb-ginger marmalade and diced fresh strawberries. The resulting treat is the perfect mashup of flaky pastry and bright-tasting fruit.

The other option, Kitchen 388's pecan pop tart, is as seductive as an almond croissant, only with better editing.

Pair either with a Four Barrel coffee, and you now have perhaps the best reason besides San Francisco fog to spend a summer morning in Oakland.

Kitchen 388, 388 Grand Ave. (at Staten Ave.), Oakland; 510-893-3005 or kitchen388.com