If Southie served only its Dungeness crab roll, the sandwich would likely generate enough sales to keep the entire enterprise in business.

Only a fool would try to resist the buttered, griddled bun, piled high with picked crab, lightly dressed with citrus aioli and speckled with finely chopped celery and herbs (pictured; $18). Trust us.

The new Oakland sandwich shop, opened last week by Rebekah, Rich and Riley Wood, owners of the adjacent Wood Tavern, already has its runaway hit. But should you want to go rogue, the Pulled Piggie ($9) sandwich--slow-roasted pork shoulder, lashed with aioli and topped with slaw--is a worthy alternate.

The chef, Max DiMare, hails from Boston; the "SPO" sandwich--that's sausage, pepper and onions ($9)--and "Nana Carmella," a meatball sub classed up with Parmigiano-Reggiano and a baguette from neighboring bakery La Farine ($10), hint at his East coast heritage.

But that crab roll? It's 100 percent West coast, and 100 percent extraordinary.

Southie, 6311 College Ave., Oakland; 510-654-0100