Unearthing great food in an unlikely spot is always a thrill.

Our latest discovery: the home-style Mexican eats at Huipil Café, housed in an industrial section of Redwood City. Its owners, the Salto family, have created a neighborhood restaurant so compelling, you'd happily drive to eat here.

Huipil Café began a year ago as a sandwich shop selling tortas, but has expanded into a bustling restaurant that serves lunch and, as of last week, dinner. The home-style Mexican cooking isn't only good for its location; it's just plain good.

The crispy tacos filled with al pastor--marinated pork strips and grilled pineapple ($8.50 at lunch, $10.50 at dinner)--are irresistible, an expert combination of soft and crunchy, sweet and salty. The sopes (pictured; $8 at lunch, $10 at dinner)--so often tough masa boats--are soft and pillowy. The toppings, including your choice of meat, avocado, and queso fresco, plus a lacing of guajillo sauce, are fresh and distinct. Heartier options, like the carne asada plate ($16) and the whole fried fish ($17), are available only at dinner.

Tony Salto, the cook, attended culinary school and has a résumé that includes some of San Francisco's top kitchens. He still spends several nights a week cooking at La Mar Cebichería on the Embarcadero, but the rest of the time he works in the Huipil kitchen with his mother, Maria, while his brother Joe takes orders out front.

A stone's throw from the highway and miles from the big city, Huipil Café is culinary pay dirt.

Huipil Café, 2992 Spring St., Redwood City; 650-369-1245