Sister Act

If the brand-new Prospect in SoMa and Boulevard were siblings, Prospect would be the stylish younger sister.

The two restaurants, after all, are spearheaded by the same team. But where Boulevard whispered of butter and Belle Époque, Prospect hums with the trappings of the new millennium.

Ravi Kapur, Boulevard's longtime chef de cuisine and now Prospect's executive chef, nods to the seasons without bowing to them. So he procures beets from noted growers, but his menu doesn't trumpet their names.

Instead, the roots speak for themselves in a salad ($12) with yogurt, manchego and Aleppo-pepper-spiced walnut brittle.

There is precise technique behind the food's approachable façade: An appetizer of black cod ($15), served with red curry sauce and shiso-shrimp tempura, is lightly cured so that the fish is moist, but not oily.

A chicken breast and morel-studded boudin ($24) comes with cheddar grits and broccoli. Bacon vinaigrette dresses pole beans draped over a flaky serving of sole ($24).

To finish, Elise Fineberg recently infused pavlovas ($8) with thyme and slicked s'mores ($9) with a Syrah reduction.

Prospect's older sister might be jealous about now.

Prospect, 300 Spear St. (at Folsom St.); 415-247-7770 or prospectsf.com