Two for Tea

Throw together an unstuffy teahouse and a well-curated confectionary and we're bound to come running.

The rear of SoMa's barely month-old Dartealing Lounge operates as a classic teahouse, replete with owner Pauline Mai's eclectic china and serving ware--amassed since her teatime obsession began as a young adult in Paris.

More than 36 teas and infusions ($9 for a bottomless pot) are offered. To accompany them, Mai has assembled a menu modeled after--but not beholden to--traditional teahouse dishes.

Despite the menu's predictable plays on words, we were thrilled with the options. Afternoon Serendipi-Tea ($25; tea included) comprises house-baked scones with Devon cream and lemon curd, tea biscuits, cakes and two sandwiches of your choosing. (Try the egg Hungarian, mushroom with herbes de Provence, or smart fish-and-chip sandwiches.)

The savory-minded should order the Lord William's Platter ($21; tea included), stocked with cheese, chutney and smoked fish mousse.

On the way out, create your own doggy bag of such imported candies as Licorice Allsorts (most bulk candies are $3 for 3 ounces) and Holland Mints.

Add some macarons ($2) from local producer Christopher David, too, if you're feeling a spot of hometown pride.

Dartealing Lounge, 470 Third St. (near Bryant St.); 415-644-0142 or dartealing.com; Wed. through Sun., 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. (last seating at 5 p.m.)