Chico's Grill Makes Homestyle (but Not Humble) Poblano Food  

Where to find proper mole poblano, chile verde and huaraches 

| San Francisco   Dining | Jonathan Kauffman


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The huarache from Chico's Grill

Chico's Grill, which quietly appeared in Bernal Heights four months ago, feels a bit like an extra room in someone's house, with mint green walls, a TV overhead and a married couple at the stoves.

In other words, it's a classic mom-and-pop shop.

Chef-owner Hilario Chico and his wife took over Olivia's, the popular Mexican-American brunch spot, a few years back, only recently renaming the place and dressing up its dinner offerings.

You can still order omelets or chilaquiles con huevos on weekend mornings. If you stop by at lunch, try a chicken-topped huarache ($7), the crisp masa shell fried at that moment so it retains a creamy core.

Chico, a veteran of Tadich Grill and One Market, imbues simple standards with extra attention. Beans and golden rice haven't crumbled into mush in some steam-table pan before they're spooned onto a plate; handmade heirloom black-corn tamales accompany orders.

Layers of spice and dried fruits come through in his classic mole poblano ($11), far more complex than the sugary jarred pastes too many San Francisco restaurants use. We enjoyed his pork chile verde ($11) even more; the stew simmers together long enough to soften the tomatillos' tart edge and marry its flavor with the now-tender meat.

Homey in the best way.

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dining-notes-h notes-fold

Our San Francisco editor, Jonathan Kauffman, dined at Chico's Grill on August 23 and September 10; he spent $10 for lunch and $40 for dinner for two, not including tip. Check out Tasting Table's restaurant recommendation policy.

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Chico's Grill 3771 Mission St. San Francisco CA 94110 415-970-0375
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