Mateo Granados has aced the pop-up restaurant trend with his latest venture.

In a neglected wine production facility in bucolic Sonoma County, the chef, famous for his mobile kitchen, has begun cooking his inspired Yucatecan food in a sit-down setting.

Every Wednesday and Thursday, Granados and his partner, Randy Tweedle, serve an a la carte menu to a small group of diners from 5 p.m. until dusk.

At the debut meal last week, the food popped with Granados' signature style, an effortless hybrid of Yucatecan flavors and Californian sensibilities. For cabeza de chivo ($10), he fried a patty of goat's-head meat in duck fat, finishing it with pickled rhubarb and flowering greens.

Local cod ($17) was sauced with a vibrant purée of roasted peppers and pumpkin seeds and paired with chard bright with Cara Cara orange peel. For chicharrón de pato ($18), duck was cooked two ways and garnished with a delicate pea-and-fava tendril salad.

A few caveats: The event is BYOB (and BYO glassware). It's also cash-only. But both are irrelevant inconveniences for a singular meal with views across a breathtaking expanse of vineyards.

Tendejón de la Calle, 9607 Eastside Rd., Windsor; 707-623-5474 for reservations