In our early cooking days, a stir-fry meant overcooking whatever meat and vegetables we had on hand in a liberal dousing of soy sauce. Our Test Kitchen takes a more nuanced approach to the quick dish, marinating lean pork-cutlet slices in fresh ginger, garlic, garlic-chile paste and low-sodium soy sauce. After the scallions have been blistered over high heat, the pork mixture is cooked in only a smidgen of oil to sweet-spicy-savory perfection. It's a far cry from the soggy stir-fries of our youth, but just as easy to prepare.