Barbacco, the casual spin-off of the FiDi institution Perbacco, has dominated the city's restaurant mindscape since it debuted almost two months ago.

The psychic lockdown is warranted: Every dish we've eaten has been delicious, and the wine list is a studied marvel of standout producers poured in a variety of quantities.

The one downside: The choices can be overwhelming. Here, then, is a guide to a perfect dinner:

Begin with a glass of 2008 Donati Lambrusco ($11) and a selection of chef Sarah Burchard's fine salumi. We're especially fond of her smooth mortadella ($5) and her sublime testa rotolata ($5), a pig's-head roulade sliced into porky whispers and served with pickled shallots.

Follow with sautéed local squid ($8) in a zippy tomato sauce and some bruschette ($3 each, or 3 for $8)--especially brawnier ones like duck liver pâté with red onion marmelata and balsamic syrup. (Both are happily also available on the lunch menu.)

Your mantra--at both dinner and lunch--should be "get the chicken," as Barbacco plays fowl impeccably. Chicken thighs ($11) are braised with white wine, roasted chicken stock and rosemary in an open pan so the skin crisps. The succulent chicken is then set on a spread of sautéed escarole, Castelvetrano olives and toasted almonds.

It's a careful interplay of sophistication and comfort--like the restaurant's ideal dessert: butterscotch ice cream ($2) studded with crunchy bits of milk chocolate feuilletine.

Barbacco, 220 California St. (bet. Battery and Front sts.); 415-955-1919 or barbaccosf.com