A tomato can be a thing of beauty, or an unripe, mealy catastrophe. While you're waiting for summer's bounty of heirlooms, enliven lackluster late-winter fruit with our Test Kitchen's recipe for roast herbed plum tomatoes. A blend of dried basil and oregano, grapeseed oil, and salt and pepper add flavor while roasting brings out the tomatoes' sweetness. Spread them on toast or use as a sandwich topping, or roughly chop them and toss with pasta. No matter how you slice them, they're a welcome breath of summer, far ahead of schedule.