The Smoking Gun 

North Fork Smoked Fish Co. has dinner covered  

| New York City   Cooking | Jamie Feldmar

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We have no interest in slaving over a hot stove during the dog days of summer. 

Soaring temperatures call for breezy meals, the less cooking the better. So we're especially smitten with the offerings from North Fork Smoked Fish Co., a new side business from Greenmarket seafood savants P.E. & D.D.  

Of course, the seafaring crew is keeping it in the family. Using fresh catches from his brother's boats in Eastern Long Island and discarded vines from local wineries, captain Phil Karlin smokes small batches of bluefish, striped bass, swordfish, scallops and more.

The scallops, brined in salt and brown sugar and smoked over Merlot vines, are heady and dense, a ready-to-eat addition to a summery pasta or a potato roll.

The hickory-smoked bluefish is lovely, too: Karlin's handmade pâté, kissed with mayonnaise and fresh chives, is easily spreadable and compulsively snackable. (He also makes striped bass and "Caribbean" swordfish spreads.) In whole fillet form, the fish flakes into perfect pieces to decorate a salad or crostini--just ask the kitchen at Northern Spy Food Co., which transforms the fillets into bluefish rillettes.

With fish this easy, why even bother firing up the grill?

Scallops, $27 a pound; bluefish pâté, $7.50 for 8 ounces; bluefish fillet, $17 a pound. Available at the P.E. & D.D. stand at the Union Square Greenmarket on Mon. and Sat. and at the Abingdon Square Greenmarket on Sat. or online at northforksmokedfish.com

Buy North Fork Smoked Fish
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Union Square Greenmarket 17th St. at Broadway New York NY 10003
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