Subdivisions

When cold weather settles in, the body needs comfort food more than ever.

Those seeking such nurturing can head to James Lenzi's Morningside Heights restaurant, Haakon's Hall.

Every day of the week, the former Café des Artistes chef offers what he humbly dubs the "TV dinner," served on a partitioned ceramic plate made by Lenzi's son (and restaurant namesake), Haakon.

The self-contained specials ($13.50) feature centerpieces like pot pie, pork loin, fish 'n' chips and turkey--and come with all the trimmings, including salad and dessert.

Parts of the Lenzi's globe-trotting menu are a nod to his Norwegian wife; for instance, an ice cream sandwich ($5) clamps warm waffles around ice cream and lingonberries. The restaurant, which opened in May, also houses a Norsk "country store", which sells staples like crispbread, cloudberry jam, Solo orange soda and caramel-colored gjetost cheese.

The mood at Haakon's grows pensive only on Sunday evenings, during the heated trivia competition. Afterward, the spirited (and spirit-fueled) conversation carries late into the night.

Haakon's Hall, 1187 Amsterdam Ave. (between 118th and 119th sts.); 212-300-4166 or haakonshallny.com