Oh, My Darling
Darling Coffee scores in Inwood
You wouldn't expect to find the finest pastries and baguettes north of 59th Street steps from the 207th Street terminus of the A train.
But there they are at the new Darling Coffee in Inwood.
Airy and inviting, Darling is the newest addition to Nick Lidakis and Nichole Frocheur-Lidakis’s family: The couple’s son, Milo, was born nine months ago.
As at any café, the first order of business is caffeination. Here, the espresso ($2.25) and pour-over coffee ($3 to 3.50) come from Blue Bottle and the house drip ($1.50) from Ozone Park-based Dallis Bros.
Once alert, look to the pastries, including the outstanding galettes ($3.50), loaded with apples and blueberries or corn and cherry tomatoes; rich scones ($3.50) with bacon or orange marmalade and currants; and velvety chocolate-stout Bundt cakes ($3.50).
The shop turns out textbook-perfect baguettes, too, with a crackling crust. Only 20 are baked daily and some are used in superb sandwiches ($3.50 to $5.50).
Get there early on Fridays and Saturdays for Darling’s fanciful cakes ($4.25 a slice): confections such as Banana Split (vanilla and chocolate layers with strawberry compote and banana-cream-cheese frosting) and Pink Lemonade with lemon curd and meringue icing.
Darling this café sure is--but with baking talent and ambition to spare.
Darling Coffee, 4961 Broadway (between 207th and Isham sts.); darlingcoffeenyc.com
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